Autumn 2008
Volume 22 #2
It’s TIME to feed your entire perennial & shrub garden with our
PLGF granular TIME RELEASE fertilizer
.

Please use our custom formulated 22-3-3 fertilizer with 6 micro elements blended for your landscape & garden beds.
We also offer ZERO-P PLGF for your lawn according to Dane County lawn fertilization mandates.


‘One 2008 Autumn application feeds the landscape for the entire 2009 growing season.’
Only $61.95 per 50# bag
(feeds about 2,500 –5,000 ft.²)

If desired, installation is available through Landscape Designs, Inc.
to order call 608-233-4215 or email Ldi@landscapedesigns.bz

Available for pick-up at our nursery, at 3290 Elvehjem Rd., on McFarland’s east side
Or, for delivery or installation, please call LDI’s Office: 608-233-4215          
LDI Nursery: 608-209-3436.      Our regular nursery hours are:   April 15th thru Nov. 15th are
Monday thru Friday 9:00 – 5:00. Saturdays 9:00 – 3:00.     Sorry, closed Sundays.

Please call on horribly inclement weather days as we may be closed.

 

Articles & Commentary for Autumn 2008

The 2008 growing season, a commentary

 

Landscape Mulches

Earthworms enhance Ambrosia Germination

Does Tearing up the Roots when Planting Help?

Observations from the nursery

 

2008’s Cold LATE Spring, and then Super Wet Summer June and Dry July and August, so far, is just a hodgepodge of extremes!  Spring took its time getting to our gardens, with Old Man Winter once again refusing to abdicate. The weather through Mid April was horrible with heavy snow and late freezing temperatures nipping many emerging spring flowers in the bud, as well as damaging the new leaves on many bushes and trees. You may have noticed how Taxus-Yew did not leaf out normally. On many Yews the terminal buds were killed and the lateral buds were very slow in sprouting. Only parts of many yews had normal growth. It made no sense as to where and why certain parts of the yews grew while other parts were very tardy in their growth. You may have noticed how many Yews required very little pruning. Many plants, including Quercus-Oak, Cercis-Redbud, Gleditsia-Honeylocust, etc. were also damaged by our late frosts, but recovered fairly well.

While very few plants were killed by Winter’s heavy snow and Spring’s late arrival, the excessive June’s record rains and then the 17th driest August did more damage to our flora than Winter’s wrath.

Then the Gypsy Moths, Japanese Beetles, Mites, Viburnum Borer and Magnolia Scale did their dastardly deeds. If the assault on our gardens was not enough, Mosquitoes, Ticks and other numerous invertebrates made outdoor living and enjoyment unpleasant. I was bitten, stung, and sucked dry of more blood than any other time in recent memory.

Working outside, in any occupation, was almost like giving daily pints of blood to the Red Cross. Home gardening came almost to a bloody halt. For those in the landscaping and other infield maintenance and construction occupations, the desire for relief soon sold out supplies of DEET and anything else that provided relief.

Finally and suddenly, the weather changed and everything just dried up. While some locations in southern Wisconsin received ample precipitations, other locations received very little.

The one day we broke 92F, there was so little moisture in the ground that many plants gave up their last gasp. Leaves browned around the edges, mites sucked the last life out of their tissues and then both perished. And weather, be as it may, the next day the temperatures broke and the rains came. Heavier rains fell in south eastern Wisconsin and nothing much northwest of the Wisconsin River, and across Dane County, the rain was from ¼” to more than 2”.

With weeks of moderate temperatures and low humidities, we are going into the autumn with very dry soil conditions.
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Landscape Mulches_

I guess it had to happen sooner or later, Designer Mulches for the landscape.

Besides gravels and glass in every color of the rainbow, you now may find artificially colored chipped wood mulches in a wide array of colors.
And, if wood mulches don’t turn your fancy, you can always get recycled synthetic rubber in Caribbean Blue and Black Pearl among many other colors.
Many folks confuse bark and wood.  Bark is the ‘skin’ of the tree. Wood is the ‘bones’ of the tree. They are quite different. Building your home out of bark would be ill advised. Wood is the home building material of choice.

A Commentary on Various Landscape Mulches

Shredded bark mulch
Shredded bark mulches are available as: new or aged, single shredded or twice shredded.
Shredded bark mulches have various amounts of wood debris as part of their composition.
Single shredded new bark mulch is bark as it stripped off logs during the milling process. Hardwood bark mulches, such as from oaks, are better and longer lasting than are soft wood barks from aspen, poplar, birch, etc. New, fresh milled bark should not be immediately used as it may still contain toxic compounds, diseases or pests. Studies at the University of MN http://www.extension.umn.edu/info-u/environment/BD273.html show that aging it a couple of months kill most any insects and diseases. Turning, mixing or aerating the mulch a few times before using it allows for aerobic respiration and negates the effects of anaerobic bacteria activity. If you smell a strong vinegar odor coming from the mulch, it should be aerated 2-3 times before using it. Otherwise, the chemicals emitting from the mulch will damage or even kill the plants you are mulching.
Twice shredded new bark is bark that has been run through the milling machine an additional time to break up the large pieces of bark. Occasionally some larger pieces make it through the second milling process.
Twice shredded aged bark our preferred mulch
Twice shredded aged bark mulch is the best of the group as it is remilled and allowed to age for a year or so before being sold. Ours is principally composed of oak with occasionally some other hardwoods.

Chipped bark mulch
Bark mulch is derived from the BARK or the tree. It is generated as a byproduct from the lumbering industry. Chipped bark decomposes fairly slowly, depending upon what species of tree the bark come from. Pine (Pinus), fir (Abies & Pseudostuga), hemlock (Tsuga), cypress (Cupressus), redwood (Sequoia and Sequoiadendron arerelatively unavailable outside the Pacific Northwest), red cedar (Juniperus), white cedar (Thuja and Chamaecyparis), and pacific cedar (Thuja and Chamaecyparis, true Cedrus-Cedarmulch is rarely available in this country) are some of the bark chip mulches that you may come across. Many of the lesser quality bagged & bulk bark mulches have a very high percentage of wood in them. White Cedar, AKA Arborvitae bagged bark chips is often derived from the milling process and formation of split rail fencing. It contains a great deal of wood chips. Carefully check the quality and fertilize accordingly with slow release nitrogen. Most chipped barks are typically acidic and make wonderful substitutes for peat moss. Fir bark is commonly used in Orchid mediums. My favorites are Fir and Hemlock bark mulches.  Some very good research may be found at: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/agib666/aib66604.pdf

Pine needle mulch
Pine needles have a pleasing appearance and acidify the soil around acid-loving plants. They are occasionally available commercially but may be raked up from around pine plantings. It is so distressing to see piles of pine needles raked up and waiting to be picked up by the municipalities.
Pine needles decompose slowly, are resistant to compaction, and are easy to work with. They provide excellent protection around newly set or tender ornamental plants. If left on year-round, pine needles should be renewed annually.

Shredded leaf mulch
Leaves that have been shredded with a composting mower make wonderful mulch. If not shredded finely enough, however, some leaves tend to mat together and form a barrier that blocks free water and oxygen movement into the soil.
However, woodland plants have evolved with natural leaf litter and many of them rely on them for humus and nutrients. In a naturalized area, there is no ecological reason to remove the normal leaf litter. If you pile it up 1-2 feet thick, you will kill everything it covers and often stunt the bushes growing in the immediate area.  No one has leaves that pile up naturally 2 feet thick in a natural forest environment. You might have an area around your home where the wind piles up leaves, but your home is not part of a natural forest environment. I have used fresh leaves in my garden for years with no ill effects.
For best results, allow leaves to partially compost before using them as a 2-3” mulch. They will finish decomposing in place, contributing humus, nitrogen, and other nutrients to the soil. Once composted, I have found no ill effect from using any leaves, including walnut, oak and boxelder. The City of Madison furnishes wonderful finished sifted composted leaf mulch. We have been using this leaf mulch for many years at our nursery as part of our growing mediums.

Wood mulch
Wood mulches are made from: saw dust, wood milling debris, reprocessed chipped wood pallets & crating, and non-usable wood construction materials. Treated, painted, glued, bonded or stained wood products should not be part of the recycled wood mulches.  Most of these decompose fairly slowly, depending upon what type of trees they are derived from. When working around any wood products use gloves to and knee pads to avoid slivers. As wood decomposes, it ties up the Nitrogen in the soil and is therefore unavailable to plants. Increased Nitrogen fertilizer will be required to compensate for the lack of Nitrogen availability when using wood mulches.  Wood mulches are commonly available in different grades and numerous stained colors. The stains may contain: iron oxide, acrylic resins, magnesium silicates, vegetable oils and ammonia. Studies at the University of Georgia indicated no detrimental runoff or residual chemicals in quality wood mulches. http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubs/PDF/B1294.pdf

Synthetic Rubber mulch
This type of mulch decomposes very slowly, gradually breaking down into carbon, zinc and metal products along with the other materials from which it was recycled, principally old tires. Most of it is in darker colors. Some colors are topically applied during the milling processes. You may experience black powdery residues on your hands, clothing and tools once the rubber begins to age. Also, some discussions on the breakdown products are mentioned in the literature. Some of the better brands make sure no metals are in their rubber mulches, making them one of the ideal mulches for children’s play ground environments.

Glass mulch
Glass mulches are typically made from recycled glass materials. Due to its high reflectivity and typical color clarity, glass mulch gives a very contemporary appearance.  During the recycling process it is tumbled and or heated to help prevent sharp cutting edges. Since it is a tough durable natural product, there is little concern of environmental chemical breakdown. In environments with high amounts of litter, it is difficult to keep clean. Also, you may experience burn marks on some of your plants due to the occasional concentrated sun beams.

Gravel mulch 
See: http://www.landscapedesigns.bz/archives/V17-GravelMulches.htm

Corn cob mulch
Occasionally you may come across milled corn cobs for sale. This is the reprocessed cobs from our corn industry. Since it so heavily used in many other industries, it is uncommonly offered for landscape mulch.

Nut Shell mulch
Even though they are not nuts, peanut shells are not recommended. Other nuts shells may occasionally be found. Many nut shells are fairly sharp and may cut you as you work the soil. Use gloves. Pecan shells make nice mulch. Many nut shell mulches float quite easily.

Rice hull mulch  
Treated rice hulls are not only replacing some of the peat moss use in the horticultural industry, but it is also a very nice soil conditioner in the garden. It does blow away fairly easily so I recommend as a conditioner only.  Also, it can produce a near impervious layer to water penetration if applied to thickly.

Cocoa bean hull mulch
This is nice mulch with an attractive texture and dark color, and to some folks, a pleasant chocolate odor. However, apply it over other mulches as a decorative veneer. If it is applied to thickly, it molds quite rapidly and forms a nearly impervious layer to water penetration. If you like to apply it thickly, work it regularly to avoid these conditions. If you are allergic to molds, wear a mask when working with it. Cocoa bean hulls are somewhat prone to washing out after heavy rains. Also they have high potassium content and may contain chemical that are toxic to some plants, especially when applied too thickly. Save a bag for occasion use in the garden before a dinner party. Then toss some lightly here and there for a bit of chocolate aroma.

Straw mulch
Straw from wheat, timothy, oats, rye, or barley is widely available and comparatively inexpensive. It is used as winter mulch around tree or shrub roots and as summer mulch in vegetable gardens and strawberry plantings.
Straw has some potential problems that must be recognized before it is used: it is highly flammable; it contains grain seeds that can germinate; it harbors rodents; it lowers the soil nitrogen supply as it decomposes; and it must be renewed annually. Additionally, it is easily blown by wind and lacks the attractiveness of other mulches.
On the other hand, it is cheap, effectively suppresses certain weed seeds and reduces soil moisture losses. As winter mulch, it protects tender roots from cold temperature injury. Careful when using it as winter mulch, as it also makes a wonder cozy home for unwanted vermin.


In different regions of the country, many other hulls that are the processing by-products of various crops are also available as mulches.
The University of Vermont has an excellent treatise on mulching landscape plants. http://www.uvm.edu/pss/ppp/articles/mulchwi.html
Cornell Cooperative Extension has a very good article on mulches. http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/organic/mulches.htm
U of MN has many articles on mulching the landscape. http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/mulching.html

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Earthworms drag the seed of Ambrosia-Giant Ragweed into their holes and increase their germination.
Studies at Ohio State University show that the common earthworms actually gather the seeds within 1 to 2 days of the seeds falling to the ground.  The earthworms even bury most of the seeds at a proper depth for good germination. Why the worms do this? Unknown. For more on this see:
http://ipcm.wisc.edu/WCMNews/tabid/53/EntryID/596/Default.aspx

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To tear or not to tear, that is the question,
And this has been the root of many discussions.

A recent study reported in The Plantsman Vol. 7 Part 3 September 2008 Pages 182-185, is beginning to address this rooting debate in shrubs.  The researchers set out to question how the teasing of roots and various degrees of root pruning affected plant growth, root weights and carbon dioxide assimilation. The experiments indicated light pruning (defined as severing the fine, <2mm diameter, roots from the sides of the root ball) enhanced future root growth better than any other technique including teasing out of the roots. Root teasing resulted in inferior root formation more often than not. Other tested root pruning techniques that also did not give good results were: horizontal heavy pruning, cutting off the lower portion of the roots from the base of the root ball; and vertical heavy pruning, cutting off up to one-half of the side of the root ball. The control plants, with no root pruning, often produced similar results as light pruning.

The studies are continuing with field experiments to determine the long term benefits, if any, to light root pruning in shrubs.
While I believe some damage to these fine roots cannot be avoided, and preliminary research indicate these damages may be beneficial, when planting or potting-up into a larger container. Root teasing, horizontal and vertical pruning cannot be recommended. The very fine roots, as mentioned above, typically die or are damaged when they are exposed to open air conditions for about 10 seconds. I have experienced many dead plants where people have abused a plant’s roots. If too many roots are damaged, a plant simply cannot gather enough water to compensate for transpiration and, at least part of, the plant will fail.
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This year, Landscape Designs nursery in McFarland hosted many new arrivals. Some of these plants stood out in the crowd, were a pleasure to work with and demanded admiration on a daily basis.

A surprising introduction this year was Hibiscus 'Lil Kim'. 'Lil' Kim' was developed in South Korea by one of the world's noted plantsman, Dr. Shim. Hibiscus syriacus is the national flower of South Korea. This variety performs as most Hibiscus syriacus do, kicking off the season slowly, and then bridging summer and Autumn with their awesome display of blooms. BUT- 'Lil Kim' is uniquely different...it's compact (relatively speaking) maturing to a height of 3-4' tall and wide. The foliage is a clean and thick deep green as it is a polyploid.  The blossoms are white with a flamed deep red center. It is also one of the first Hibiscus whose flowers last more than one day, typically 2-3days!  ‘Lil Kim’ is very sweet, especially when planted in the mixed perennial border in light shade to full sun.

Miscanthus 'Gold Bar' stood out amongst the ornamental grasses for it's extremely tight horizontal bands of alternating true green and warm yellow.   The genesis of 'Gold Bar' is Oregon State, where a more compact, slow-growing seedling of Miscanthus strictus was discovered with more frequent banding on shorter, narrower leaves. Almost clownish, ‘Gold Bar’ is seriously cool for growing in most any average sunny garden environment.

Even though Callicarpa 'Early Amethyst' has been around for many years, it startled me in late August with its contrasting pale green leaves and bead-like purple berry clusters, each berry the size of a cooked tapioca pearl. The two colors vibrate next to each other and the berries last well into the winter until the birds get desperate (apparently not their first choice). Callicarpa is Greek for "beautiful fruit". No kidding! Maturing at about 4’ high and wide, this easily grown shrub should be cut back to about 12” in early spring. This will encourage nice bushy growth and enhanced flowering and fruiting on the vigorous new shoots. Great for the average full sun to light shade garden.

Rosa 'Kiss Me', classified as an Easy Elegance Grandiflora type, ‘Kiss Me’ has an arguably ridiculous name, but the rose is a gem! It blooms like a sunset, with creamy pinkish-orange, fading to salmon, then apricot, ending with a rich yellow center. An added bonus to the frequent breath-taking blooms is the fact that they are fragrant! HooRah! No winter cover is required on the hardy full sun loving rose.

I always enjoy Tricyrtis, but one of my favorites at the nursery is the hybrid 'Lemon Twist'. The vigorous foliage feels like rubber and has slightly darker green freckles. The blooms, as one could deduce by the name, are lemony yellow. While not an aggressive grower, it is a durable plant, thriving in a moist shady woodland environmentwitha subtly intriguing disposition.

I encourage everyone to visit the nursery in Late April to Mid May when the Rhododendron-Azaleas are blooming. This is the time when the green herons commonly nest above our Hosta area. It is quite exciting to watch the fledglings hop from branch to branch in the mature pines shading our perennial areas.

Until next time, Kristine Drake, LDI Nursery Manager
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Published by Steve Lesch, your gardening correspondent.
©Sept. 2008 Landscape Designs, Inc.

 

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